Ok, here goes then. I’m going to break my own rules, and pass judgement on a load of route grades. Having mentioned that I’d do this a week or so ago, I was fairly surprised by the number of opinions expressed on whether I should do this or not! It’s really not the end of the world if an opinion is expressed and likewise it’s not the best thing since sliced bread. I do think it should be done now and again though – and the more people that did this in an open way (rather than anonymous forum posting/voting) the better. Please feel free to comment at the end of this blog on any others you’d like adding to the list.
I’ll apologise in advance to all my friends who read this and see that I’ve moved anything downward in grade – it’s not personal…. honest! And besides, it’s only my opinion. Also as wise man Sam Hamer pointed out to me, it’s only the lines that truly matter, not the grade.
It was a total geek posting, with a ridiculously long list of those that I’d suggest move up and those that move down. However, after a few days thought, I’ve decided to keep it to those I feel most strongly about, rather than the shady areas of “soft” or “sandbag.” I’ve formatted it so that each route is in what I think is the correct grade boundary and will have brackets afterwards to show its previous grade. I’ve only moved a grade if I think it’s a total joke at the grade – I’m quite happy with some routes out there being tough or soft.
All of these routes I have lead (bar Captain Invincible which I’ve top roped a fair bit) so I hope my opinion is as measured as possible. I’ve also kept it mostly Eastern Grit based as it’s Andi T’s duty to expose those from the dark west….
E9: Captain Invincible, Burbage South (E8 – makes most E8s feel like E6)
E6: Shape Shifter, Millstone (E5 – sorry, bad grading. My fault)
E5: Profit of Doom (E4, Too many wads flail on this)
E5: Hurricane, Curbar (E4: proper Gogarth E5)
E5: Nectar groove & roof (E4. P Widdy even flailed on it)
E8: The Zone (E9 – the climbing is too easy)
E7: Power of the Dark Side (E8 – who made a bloody massive patio??!)
E6: One Chromosone’s Missing, Harstons (E7 – gear is too good)
E6: Masters of the Universe (E7 – everyone knows this one)
E6: Speak The Truth (E7 – dangerous, but the climbing is too easy)
E5: Committed (E6 – no one ever does this without pads. Ulysses or Bust is harder)
E5: Nosferatu (E6 – sorry, it just is)
E5: Peas of Mind, Curbar (E6 – crap route, too easy to step off line)
E5: Winters Grip, Millstone (E6 – hard move much too low for E6)
E4: London Pride, Millstone (E5 – no hard moves)